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Francisca Ester Nain dressed in a Kepayan Tongkat in 2019.
KOTA KINABALU (May 28): The “traditional” costumes donned by contestants in the State-level Unduk Ngadau pageant must have a proven historical record, are authentic and have a story to tell.
State Unduk Ngadau chairperson Tindarama Joanna Kitingan said this was why the ‘Abaya’ is no longer accepted as as a traditional wear for the State Unduk Ngadau pageant this year.
“There is no story in the Abaya, no authenticity. So how can it be accepted as a traditional costume, compared to the ‘lampoi’, ‘linangkit’. We don’t accept that,” she said when explaining the types of costumes the contestants should wear during the contest.
She also reminded that the traditional wear of the Kadazan Dusun Murut and Rungus (KDMR) people is a form of art that is translated in the costume.
“That is why we don’t accept the Abaya. It has no story, and it is not woven … it is brought by the Javanese, so it is not from the indigenous women themselves.
“Here, our KDMR women weave their attire. And there are meanings, like the ‘rombituon’ which we translate in our attire, the ‘toongom kara’, and when they see the centipede, they also translate in their costume,” she said.
Joanna said that she conducted research on the KDMR traditional attire last year and found that Abaya is not part of it.
“It is a borrowed attire,” she said.
As a matter of fact, she said she considers the Abaya more a fashion than a tradition, and she fears that many more will wear it because it is cheap.
“The traditional attire is woven, there is story to tell, there is history … every motif has a story to tell, the gosing, the rombituon, everything has a story to the tradition of the costume, there is identity in there,” she reminded.
Joanna said that the first time the Abaya was worn in the State-level Unduk Ngadau pageant was by Karambunai’s contestant, Francisca Ester Nain in 2019, citing that it was a Kebaya Tongkat.
She said: “We thought it was going back to basics, but in actual fact, the Abaya has no real story … it is an ordinary wear but influenced by Indonesia. At least the Kebaya has motifs, it’s Kerawang.”
Joanna said her committee this year will hence, scrutinize all the costumes worn by the contestants.
“That is why we have the Unduk Ngadau gallery set up, to really look at the authenticity of the traditional costume which is the identity to each district,” she said.
“Traditional attire is something to be proud of, and has a story and meaning to the identity of the district,” she added.
A total of 50 contenders are taking part in the pageant this year.
On May 29, the Sodop Unduk Ngadau gala night will be held at the Sabah International Convention Centre.
The crowning of the 2023 State Unduk Ngadau will be held at the Kadazandusun Cultural Association in Penampang on May 31.
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